Update: 13.08.2019 16:42
Published: 08/13/2019, 15:13
Hachioji (Japan) – Sports climber Adam Ondra did not qualify for the bouldering final at the World Championship and the semifinals and finished in sixth place. None of the four routes reached the so-called zone, i.e. in the intermediate stage below the peak. The title in Japan was given to Tomoa Narasaki, the overall winner of this year's World Cup.
Andra, who won the world title since 2014 and two more, made it to the finals as a major medal candidate. He thought of moving on to the finals, where he could not positively reach last year's World Championship. He said in the media recording, "The first discipline was a success for me, I would say, because I made it to the finals. In the finals I had a record of zero, which was disappointing."
The final "problems" did not suit him. It started with the first one that the accusers had to run and move on. The Brno native only managed to catch once, but he was not successful in the next step and then did not reach the starting position in four minutes.
Likewise his efforts on the other three trips were futile and the only finalist did not register a zone. Everyone else had at least two. "It was a very difficult final, it was a fight for every catch. The style was very modern, very coordinated and very dynamic.
Only Narasaki reached the top of the finals, beating two of the four boulders and adding another world title to the 2016 gold. Other medals were taken for the three zones, determining the amount of effort required to achieve them. Austrian Jakub Schubert won the silver medal and Yannick Floh from Germany finished third.
The women's competition was dominated by Janja Garnabret, the first woman to defend the world title in this discipline. Twenty-year-old Slowinka, who won the SP overall this year in Bouldering, was the only one to top three of the four routes in the final.
Andra can get a taste of the difficulty, which starts Wednesday with qualification. The semifinals and finals will be held on Thursday. The most important combination for the Czech climbing leader at this World Championship is next week. This discipline will have to fight for places at the Olympic Games in Tokyo.
Men: 1. Narasaki (JPN) 2. Shubert (AUT), 3. Floh (DEU), …6. Ondra, In the qualification 57. Strenic, 71. Conney, 96. Cross (All CR)
Women: 1. Garnabret (SVN), 2. Noguchi (JPN), 3. Coxsie (UK), … in qualifying 55. Adamovsk á (CR)